Private vehicle departs early following the Prithvi Highway west then north up the Marsyangdi River valley. The 200km drive takes 9 to 10 hours through subtropical lowlands, rice terraces, and pine hill country. Dharapani sits at the junction of the Marsyangdi and Dudh Khola rivers, the starting point of the classic Annapurna Circuit and the last major town before the restricted zone.

The first trekking day follows the Annapurna Circuit north along the Marsyangdi River through pine and rhododendron forest. Bagarchhap marks the transition to flat-roofed Tibetan-influenced stone architecture. Pass through Chame, district headquarters of Manang, then continue to Koto where the Nar Khola joins the Marsyangdi. Register restricted area permits at the police checkpoint here before tomorrow’s entry.

Cross the bridge at Koto and show permits at the police post. Everything changes immediately. The trail follows the Nar Khola upstream through a steep narrow gorge with dense pine, birch, and rhododendron on both sides and waterfalls dropping from cliffs above. Several wooden bridge crossings before the trail emerges onto the Tibetan plateau at Meta. No Wi-Fi, no mobile signal, very few other trekkers from here onward.

The valley reveals its full character today. The trail climbs through barren wind-scoured terrain with dramatic limestone canyons. Pass through Kyang, which served as a base for Khampa Tibetan guerrilla fighters during the 1959 uprising against Chinese rule. Beyond Kyang the trail crosses the Phu Khola and climbs to Phu at 4,080m, announced by a centuries-old carved wooden gate. Tashi Lhakhang Monastery, over 700 years old, sits at the heart of the settlement.

A full day at 4,080m before gaining more altitude. Explore Tashi Lhakhang Monastery with its detailed prayer hall murals and resident monks. Walk the stone alleys past drying yak meat and hand-spun wool. For those feeling strong, a hike toward Himlung Himal Base Camp at 4,540m takes 4 to 5 hours round trip and adds useful altitude preparation. Alcohol, meat, and tobacco are prohibited throughout the restricted zone.

Retrace toward Meta then branch south into the Nar Valley. Cross Mahendra Pul, a steel cable suspension bridge 80m above the Labse Khola gorge. The trail climbs through open valley terrain past painted stupas and bamboo prayer flag poles to Nar village, locally called Chuprung. More compact and lively than Phu with women weaving on backstrap looms, monks spinning prayer wheels, and terraced barley fields below Kang Garu peak. The Kang La ridgeline is visible from here.

A second acclimatisation day before the Kang La crossing. Hike to the ridge above Nar for views of Pisang Peak (6,091m), Kangaru Himal (6,981m), and the pass you cross tomorrow. Explore the monastery, observe the daily rhythm of the village, and rest well. Your guide checks oxygen saturation levels this evening and confirms the 4am departure time. Lay out all your gear tonight and sleep early.

Pre-dawn start at 4am. The climb from Nar to Kang La at 5,320m takes 5 to 6 hours through juniper scrub, scree, and moraine. Prayer flags and views of Annapurna massif, Manaslu (8,163m), Himlung Himal (7,126m), and Kangaru Himal mark the summit. Show permits at the exit checkpoint. The descent drops over 1,660m to Ngawal on steep switchbacks before flattening into the Manang Valley. Ngawal feels like a different world after a week in the restricted zone.

A recovery day on the main Annapurna Circuit. The trail passes Braga with its 500-year-old cliff-face monastery housing one of the finest collections of Buddhist statues and thangkas in the region. Manang has bakeries, gear shops, and the Himalayan Rescue Association post with a free afternoon altitude sickness lecture. Significantly better facilities than anything in the restricted section. Attend the HRA lecture and sleep early.

The trail climbs out of the Manang Valley following the Jarsang Khola through sparse juniper into open alpine terrain. A manageable 510m gain as a buildup before Thorong La. Yak Kharka sits on a windswept plateau with wide views of Chulu East, Chulu West, and Thorong Peak. Teahouses are simple. Eat well, drink 3 litres of water, and sleep early.

A short day to preserve energy for tomorrow. Cross the Kone Khola suspension bridge, pass through Ledar at 4,200m, then climb to Thorong Phedi. Temperatures drop well below freezing at night here. Lay out all your gear tonight, drink 3 litres of water, eat a full meal, and sleep by 8pm. The pass crossing starts before dawn.

Wake-up at 4am. The climb from Phedi through High Camp to Thorong La at 5,416m takes 5 to 6 hours. One of the world’s highest trekking passes. Prayer flags and a seasonal tea stall mark the summit with views across Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and the Mustang plateau. The 1,656m descent to Muktinath takes 3 to 4 hours on steep loose rock. Muktinath has 108 brass water spouts, an eternal natural gas flame, hot showers, and apple pie.

Start early before the Kali Gandaki valley winds build. The trail descends through Jharkot fortress village and the medieval mud-brick settlement of Kagbeni on the boundary of restricted Upper Mustang before following the river south to Jomsom. Last night on trail after 12 days in the mountains. Jomsom has good teahouses, shops, and a bakery. Confirm your flight for tomorrow morning.

Early morning flight before valley winds build. The 30-minute flight follows the Kali Gandaki gorge between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, one of the deepest gorges in the world. Flights are weather-dependent with a jeep ride as the alternative. Check into your lakeside hotel by mid-morning. Phewa Lake, the Annapurna range reflected in the water, and a proper bed are the reward for 13 days on trail.

Tourist bus departs early morning along the Prithvi Highway, 200km in 7 to 9 hours through terraced hillsides and river towns. Arrive by afternoon. That evening your guide takes you to a traditional Nepali farewell dinner with cultural performances. Dal bhat, momo, and a proper meal at a table that does not wobble.

Breakfast at the hotel then private transfer to the airport timed to your flight. If time allows, Boudhanath is 20 minutes by taxi. Luggage stored during the trek can be collected before you head out.