Most of Nepal’s trekking routes were documented, mapped, and written about decades ago. Lower Dolpo was not. The region sits in the far northwest behind the Dhaulagiri massif in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, where annual rainfall drops below 200mm and the landscape shifts from pine forest to high-altitude desert within a single day’s walk. The Dolpo-pa people who live here have maintained trade routes to Tibet for centuries, crossing passes above 5,000m with yak caravans loaded with salt and grain. That same world was captured on film in 1999 when French director Eric Valli spent nine months in the region making “Himalaya” – the first Nepalese film nominated for an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film. The route MountainKick follows passes through the same valleys, the same villages, and the same lake that appear in that film. This is not a marketing angle – it is geography.
The 18-day itinerary flies from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and then on a second mountain flight to Juphal (2,320m), the gateway airstrip for Dolpo. From Juphal the trail descends to the Bheri River and follows it upstream through Dunai – the administrative headquarters of Dolpa district – before climbing through the Tarap Valley to Dho Tarap (4,090m), the highest continuously inhabited village in Nepal and the heartland of the Bon religion. From Dho Tarap the route crosses two high passes, Numa La (5,190m) and Baga La (5,070m), before descending to Ringmo village on the shore of Phoksundo Lake. The lake sits at 3,611m with no aquatic life, turquoise water that never freezes, and a 167m waterfall dropping from its outlet gorge. The route returns to Juphal from the lake via Chhepka. Accommodation is semi-camping throughout – teahouses where they exist, tents with full kitchen crew where they do not.
Lower Dolpo requires more logistics than any other trek MountainKick operates. Two domestic flights, four permits, a mandatory licensed guide, a cook, and a full camping crew for the high sections. It also requires more time – 18 days is the minimum to do the route properly without rushing the Dho Tarap acclimatisation or the pass crossings. The reward is access to a landscape and culture that very few trekkers reach in any given year. The Bon religion, practiced here since before Buddhism arrived in Tibet, is visible in everyday life – prayer wheels that spin anti-clockwise, monasteries oriented differently from Buddhist gompas, and a community at Dho Tarap that has been largely unchanged by outside influence. This trek suits experienced trekkers who have completed at least one high-altitude route and are comfortable with remote, self-sufficient travel.
Phoksundo Lake (3,611m) – Nepal’s Deepest Lake The turquoise water of Phoksundo Lake has no aquatic life, which keeps it exceptionally clear. The lake is 145m deep, covers nearly 500 hectares, and was designated a Ramsar wetland site of international significance in 2008. A 167m waterfall drops from the lake’s outlet into the gorge below. The village of Ringmo sits on the southern shore with a working monastery and views across the water to the Kanjiroba Himal. Eric Valli filmed key scenes of “Himalaya” here, using the lake and its surrounding cliffs as a backdrop.
Dho Tarap (4,090m) – Heartland of Bon Religion Dho Tarap is the largest settlement in upper Dolpo and the centre of the Bon religion in Nepal. Bon predates Buddhism in Tibet and has distinct practices – worshippers circumambulate stupas and mani walls anti-clockwise rather than clockwise. The village sits in a wide valley at 4,090m with flat-roofed stone houses, a large monastery, and yak pastures. An acclimatisation day here allows time to visit the gompa, observe daily village life, and prepare for the two high passes ahead.
Numa La (5,190m) and Baga La (5,070m) Two consecutive high pass crossings on consecutive days define the most demanding section of the Lower Dolpo circuit. Numa La at 5,190m is the higher of the two and the harder crossing. Views from the top extend across the Kanjiroba Himal, Dhaulagiri, and the vast plateau of inner Dolpo. Baga La the following day provides a different perspective with the Phoksundo watershed visible below. Both crossings are above the camping range for most Nepal treks.
The “Himalaya” Film Route Eric Valli’s 1999 film – released internationally as “Caravan” – was shot over nine months in the Dolpo region using local villagers and lamas rather than professional actors. The film follows a yak caravan crossing the same passes on this itinerary and was the first Nepalese film nominated for the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film. Watching the film before your trek gives a genuine preview of the landscape, the people, and the culture you will encounter on the trail.
Shey Phoksundo National Park Wildlife The national park covering 3,555 sq km is one of the most important snow leopard habitats in Nepal, with studies recording around 90 individuals in the area. Blue sheep (bharal), Himalayan tahr, red panda, and Himalayan black bear are all present on the route. The park’s protected status and very low visitor numbers mean wildlife sightings are more likely here than on any other Nepal trek MountainKick operates.
Semi-Camping with Full Kitchen Crew Where teahouses exist – Dunai, Tarakot, Ringmo, Chhepka – the group stays in local lodges. Above teahouse range, MountainKick’s cook and kitchen crew set up a full camp with mess tent, sleeping tents, and hot meals. This semi-camping format means you carry only a daypack on the trail while the support crew handles logistics. It is the only practical way to complete the Numa La and Baga La crossings with proper meals and rest at the high camps.
A MountainKick representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel in Thamel. The rest of the day is free to rest and recover from travel.
Points of Interest: Thamel gear shops, currency exchange
A full day for permit processing, gear check, and trek briefing with your guide. MountainKick handles the RAP and Shey Phoksundo National Park permit paperwork. Use the afternoon to purchase any last-minute gear, withdraw cash, and confirm your domestic flight tickets. This is the only day with reliable internet access before Dunai – download offline maps, sort communications, and back up devices.
Points of Interest: Permit offices, Thamel gear shops
A one-hour flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, a low-altitude town in the western Terai plains. Nepalgunj is the transit hub for all Dolpo flights and sits at only 150m – noticeably hotter and more humid than Kathmandu. The afternoon is free. An early night is recommended as the Juphal flight departs before sunrise.
Distance: 320km by air | Time: 1 hour flight
Points of Interest: Nepalgunj bazaar Accommodation: Hotel, Nepalgunj | Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
The 35-minute mountain flight from Nepalgunj to Juphal is one of the most dramatic in Nepal, crossing the Chure Hills and approaching a short gravel airstrip flanked by steep ridges. From Juphal the trail descends through terraced maize and barley fields above the Thuli Bheri River to Dunai, the administrative headquarters of Dolpa district. Dunai has a small hospital, a few lodges, a police post, and a permit checkpoint. It is larger and better equipped than most settlements ahead.
Distance: 8km / 5 miles | Time: 2-3 hours | Difficulty: Easy
Points of Interest: Juphal airstrip approach, Thuli Bheri River, Dunai permit checkpoint
The trail follows the southern bank of the Bheri River upstream through deep gorges, crossing several suspension bridges strung above the river. The route passes the village of Byasgar and climbs to Tarakot, a small hilltop settlement with terraced fields of buckwheat and barley visible from the trail below. Blue pine forest lines the gorge walls. Views of Kang Tokal (6,294m) appear to the north.
Distance: 16km / 10 miles | Time: 5-6 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
Points of Interest: Bheri River gorge, Byasgar village, Kang Tokal views
Leaving Tarakot the trail enters the Tarap Chu river valley, the main drainage of the upper Tarap Valley. The landscape transitions from pine-forested gorges to a wider, drier valley as altitude increases. The route passes through Khani Gaon and Chhyujar before reaching Laini, where Shey Phoksundo National Park begins. Mani walls and chortens become more frequent. The vegetation noticeably thins as you enter the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri massif.
Distance: 18km / 11.2 miles | Time: 6-7 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
Points of Interest: Tarap Chu valley entry, Shey Phoksundo National Park checkpoint, Sandul Gompa (11th century) near Chhyujar
The valley walls close in and the trail climbs through increasingly arid terrain. The path is carved directly into cliff faces in several sections, passing naturally formed rock tunnels and overhangs. Blue sheep are commonly sighted on the surrounding ridges from here. The vegetation is sparse – juniper, scrub, and high-altitude grasses replace the pine forest of the lower valley. Nawarpani marks the gateway to the high Tarap plateau.
Distance: 14km / 8.7 miles | Time: 5-6 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
Points of Interest: Cliff-carved trail sections, rock tunnels, blue sheep on ridges, Nawarpani gateway
The plateau opens dramatically as you approach Dho Tarap, the largest settlement in upper Dolpo. The valley widens from narrow gorge to broad highland plateau in less than two hours. Mani walls line the approach to the village and the change in scale – from tight canyon walls to open sky – is abrupt. Dho Tarap has 34 stone houses divided into three clusters, two Bon monasteries including the Sipchok Dedhen Phuntsokling Bon Monastery, and a small health post. Ribo Bhumpa Gompa, a Nyingmapa Buddhist monastery built in the sacred vase style, sits above the village.
Distance: 12km / 7.5 miles | Time: 5-6 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
Points of Interest: Tarap plateau approach, Ribo Bhumpa Gompa, Sipchok Dedhen Phuntsokling Bon Monastery, Dho Tarap village
A full rest day before the two high pass crossings. Spend the morning visiting the Bon monasteries – watch for prayer wheels spinning anti-clockwise and circumambulation paths oriented counter to Buddhist practice. The afternoon is good for a short walk on the plateau above the village to assist acclimatisation. Dho Tarap residents still trade with Tibet via yak caravan – if timing aligns with a caravan departure or arrival, it is one of the most vivid travel experiences available in Nepal.
Distance: 3-5km optional | Time: 2-3 hours optional | Difficulty: Easy
Points of Interest: Bon monastery visits, yak caravan observation, plateau acclimatisation walk
Leaving Dho Tarap the trail heads north through the arid upper section of the valley toward the Numa La approach. The landscape is fully above the tree line – rocky moraines, seasonal streams, and open plateau. Views of the Dhaulagiri massif appear behind as altitude is gained. The base camp at 4,440m is a flat camping area below the final climb to the pass. An early night is essential for the pre-dawn start the following morning.
Distance: 12km / 7.5 miles | Time: 6-7 hours | Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous
Points of Interest: Upper Tarap plateau, Dhaulagiri range views, Numa La base camp
Departure at 4-5am by headtorch. The climb to Numa La (5,190m) gains 750m from base camp over 3-4 hours on steep rocky terrain. At the top: views across the Kanjiroba Himal, the Dhaulagiri range, and the vast arid plateau of inner Dolpo. Prayer flags and chortens mark the pass. The descent to Gyambo Khola and the green meadows of Danigar is long. Danigar has no teahouse – tents only. The contrast between the barren pass and the green meadow camp is striking.
Distance: 16km / 10 miles | Time: 8-9 hours | Difficulty: Strenuous
Points of Interest: Numa La Pass (5,190m), Kanjiroba Himal views, Dhaulagiri views, Danigar meadow camp
A second consecutive high pass crossing. The ascent to Baga La (5,070m) is shorter than Numa La but the previous day’s exertion is felt at altitude. Views from the top include Norbung Kang (6,085m), Kanjiroba Himal (6,612m), and on a clear day the turquoise surface of Phoksundo Lake visible far below. Prayer flags and chortens mark the pass. The descent to Yak Kharka follows a moraine ridge before opening to yak grazing pastures. Phoksundo is now close.
Distance: 14km / 8.7 miles | Time: 7-8 hours | Difficulty: Strenuous
Points of Interest: Baga La Pass (5,070m), Norbung Kang and Kanjiroba views, first Phoksundo Lake sighting, Yak Kharka pastures
A descent from the high alpine zone to the village of Ringmo on the southern shore of Phoksundo Lake. The trail drops through juniper scrub and open meadow before the lake comes into full view. Ringmo is a small Bon community with flat-roofed stone houses, a working monastery – Tshowa Gompa – and terraced barley fields on the slope above the lake. The turquoise water and surrounding cliff faces are immediately visible from the village.
Distance: 10km / 6.2 miles | Time: 4-5 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
Points of Interest: First full Phoksundo Lake view, Ringmo village, Tshowa Gompa, Phoksundo Khola waterfall
A full day at Phoksundo Lake. The lake sits at 3,611m, covers nearly 500 hectares, and reaches a depth of 145m. Its turquoise color comes from dissolved minerals and the absence of aquatic life – no fish, no algae. A trail circuits part of the shoreline with views of the 167m waterfall dropping from the lake’s northern outlet. Sandul Gompa, an 11th-century monastery on the opposite shore, is reachable by a 2-3 hour walk from Ringmo. Eric Valli filmed key scenes of “Himalaya” on these shores and the cliff faces above the lake.
Distance: 5-10km optional | Time: 2-4 hours optional | Difficulty: Easy
Points of Interest: Phoksundo Lake shoreline, 167m waterfall, Sandul Gompa, Tshowa Gompa
Leaving Phoksundo the trail descends steeply through pine and birch forest along the Phoksundo Khola gorge. The route passes beneath enormous overhanging cliffs and through settlements where traditional mineral medicines are still traded. The descent from 3,657m to 2,530m in a single day is significant and the knees feel it on the rocky trail. Chhepka is a small settlement at the park boundary with basic teahouse facilities.
Distance: 19km / 11.8 miles | Time: 6-8 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
Points of Interest: Phoksundo Khola gorge, overhanging cliff sections, traditional mineral medicine settlements, Shey Phoksundo National Park exit
The final trekking day follows the Phoksundo Khola downstream through birch forest, crossing the Dhim Khola suspension bridge before the trail climbs to Shyanta and Kageni villages. The park checkpoint is crossed for the last time here. A gradual ascent through open meadow and past a few houses leads to Kala Gaura before the final push to Juphal. The trek crew is thanked and paid here. Overnight at Juphal before the morning flight.
Distance: 16km / 10 miles | Time: 5-6 hours | Difficulty: Easy-Moderate
Points of Interest: Dhim Khola bridge, Shyanta and Kageni villages, Shey Phoksundo National Park final checkpoint, Juphal village
Morning flight from Juphal to Nepalgunj, 35 minutes. Mountain weather can delay departure – early morning slots have the best chance. Nepalgunj is warm, low, and a complete contrast to the landscape of the past two weeks. Use the afternoon to rest, do laundry, and eat fresh food unavailable on the trek. A good night’s sleep at low altitude before the Kathmandu flight.
Distance: 110km by air | Time: 35 minutes | Difficulty: N/A
Points of Interest: Nepalgunj bazaar, Bageshwari Temple
One-hour flight back to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel in Thamel on arrival. Farewell dinner in the evening with your guide and crew. A good opportunity to process permits, sort tips, and reflect on the route.
Distance: 320km by air | Time: 1 hour
Points of Interest: Kathmandu arrival, farewell dinner
Airport transfer for your onward flight. A further buffer day is recommended before long-haul international flights given Juphal flight variability the previous day.
Daily budget estimate: Drinks and personal expenses only as meals are included. Budget $10-20/day for tea, coffee, soft drinks, and incidentals. No ATMs exist between Dunai and Juphal. Withdraw sufficient cash in Kathmandu before departure. Dunai has a small bank but reliability is inconsistent. Total personal spending money needed: approximately $200-380 for the trek duration.
Days 1, 2, and 18 – 3-Star Hotel, Thamel (1,400m) Twin-sharing rooms with private bathroom, hot water, Wi-Fi, and air conditioning. Single room supplement available on request (add $30-50/night). Upgrade to 4-star available on request.
Days 3 and 17 – Hotel, Nepalgunj (150m) Standard twin-sharing rooms with private bathroom, air conditioning, and hot water. Nepalgunj has reliable electricity and internet – the last chance to charge devices fully and make international calls before and after the trek.
Accommodation is a mix of teahouses and tented camps depending on location. Teahouses in Dunai, Tarakot, Ringmo, and Chhepka provide basic twin-sharing rooms with shared bathrooms and blankets provided. Above teahouse range – Laini, Nawarpani, Dho Tarap, Numa La Base Camp, Danigar, Yak Kharka – MountainKick sets up a full tented camp with individual sleeping tents, a mess tent for meals, and a separate kitchen tent. A sleeping bag rated to -15C is essential. Single tents are standard for all trekkers on the camping sections.
Altitude and Acclimatisation
Hardest Days
Fitness Requirements
Domestic Flights
Cash and ATMs
Permits
Travel Insurance
Best Season
Mobile and Internet
Camping Equipment
Extension Options
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