Island Peak Climbing
●●●●● 4.9 · 60+ TripAdvisor reviewsSummit Island Peak (6,189m) with full mountaineering training at base camp and a licensed climbing Sherpa on the rope with you from 2 AM to the top.
On The Trail
What It Really Looks Like
Island Peak Climbing: What to Expect
Stand on your first Himalayan summit with Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam on the same horizon
One dedicated climbing Sherpa on the rope with you from base camp to the summit and back
Crampons, ice axe, jumar, fixed ropes, and crevasse crossing covered at base camp before summit day
Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner from Day 2 to Day 15, including base camp and farewell dinner
Island Peak (Imja Tse) sits at 6,189m in the Imja Valley, surrounded by Lhotse, Nuptse, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam. It was first summited in 1953 by members of the British Everest Expedition as a training climb before their Everest attempt. The same route they used is the route climbed today. It is the most popular trekking peak above 6,000m in Nepal and the standard entry point into technical Himalayan mountaineering.
This 16-day expedition goes directly to the summit via the Chhukung Valley. No Everest Base Camp detour, no side trips. Every acclimatisation day, every camp choice, and every rest day is structured around one objective: putting you in the best possible physical condition to reach the top. The route follows the classic Khumbu trail to Namche, then branches into the quieter Imja Valley through Dingboche and Chhukung to base camp at 5,087m. Summit day starts at 2:00 AM. The ascent covers steep scree to crampon point, glacier travel, crevasse crossings on fixed ladders, fixed rope sections on jumar, and a near-vertical 100m headwall before the exposed summit ridge. Round trip from base camp is 8 to 14 hours depending on conditions.
No prior mountaineering experience is required. A full technical training session runs at base camp on Day 9 covering crampon technique, ice axe arrest position, ascending and descending fixed ropes, and crevasse rescue. What you do need is solid multi-day trekking fitness and the resolve for a long pre-dawn summit push. If you want Island Peak combined with Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, that is a separate 20-day itinerary: EBC with Island Peak.
All meals are included throughout: every breakfast, lunch, and dinner from Day 2 through Day 15 at teahouses and base camp, plus the farewell dinner in Kathmandu. Two buffer days are built in for Lukla flight delays.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Arrive in Kathmandu
A MountainKick representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel. That evening your climbing guide runs a full pre-expedition briefing covering the 16-day route, gear check, permits, summit day sequence, and Lukla flight logistics. Lay out all your kit tonight.
Fly to Lukla, Trek to Phakding
Early morning flight to Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary Airport. Porters organise loads while you prepare for the first day on trail. The route drops gently alongside the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest and Sherpa settlements to Phakding. An easy introduction by design. During peak season (Mar–May, Oct–Nov) flights depart from Ramechhap, requiring a 2:30 AM hotel departure.
Trek to Namche Bazaar
The trail follows the Dudh Koshi River crossing suspension bridges before entering Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. The final two hours are a steep sustained climb into Namche. On a clear day you get your first view of Everest above the ridge before reaching town.
Acclimatisation Day in Namche
First acclimatisation day using the climb high, sleep low principle. We hike to the Everest View Hotel at 3,880m with clear sight lines to Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, then return to Namche to sleep lower. Time to visit the Sherpa Culture Museum or browse expedition gear shops in town.
Trek to Tengboche
The trail drops to the Dudh Koshi River at Phunki Tenga then climbs through rhododendron forest to Tengboche Monastery, the spiritual centre of the Khumbu. Founded in 1916 and rebuilt after a 1989 fire, the monastery sits on a ridge with a full panorama of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Evening prayers are worth attending.
Trek to Dingboche
The trail passes through Pangboche, home to the oldest monastery in the Khumbu, before climbing into the open Imja Valley above the tree line. Island Peak appears on the horizon for the first time from Dingboche, rising distinctly above the surrounding glaciers exactly as Eric Shipton described it in 1953 — like an island in a sea of ice.
Trek to Chhukung
A shorter day that gains altitude steadily through the upper Imja Valley. Chhukung sits in one of the most dramatic natural amphitheatres in the Himalaya: Lhotse and Nuptse to the north, Baruntse and Cho Polu to the east, Ama Dablam to the south, and Island Peak directly ahead. This is your staging ground. Rest, eat well, and prepare your kit for base camp tomorrow.
Trek to Island Peak Base Camp
The approach follows the Imja Glacier moraine through ice-polished boulders and shifting seracs. Island Peak rises directly ahead as you climb. On arrival your climbing guide runs the route briefing, checks all equipment, and confirms the summit plan. Early dinner and early bed — summit day is two days away but the preparation starts now.
Rest and Technical Training at Base Camp
A full day on the glacier before the summit attempt. Your climbing guide leads hands-on training covering crampon technique on snow and ice, ice axe arrest position, ascending and descending fixed ropes with a jumar, crevasse crossing on a ladder system, and rope team protocol. This is also your opportunity to ask every question about the summit route. Early dinner, early sleep. Alarm goes off at 1:30 AM tomorrow.
Summit Island Peak, Descend to Chhukung
Alarm at 1:30 AM. Depart base camp by 2:00 AM. The first section crosses rocky scree on a steep 400m zigzag path — trekking boots, hands required in places. At crampon point the glacier begins. Rope up, crampons on, jumar out. The route crosses several crevasses on fixed ladders, ascends fixed rope sections, and finishes on a near-vertical 100m headwall of snow and ice before the exposed summit ridge at 6,189m. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse fill the horizon. Descend in full to Chhukung for the night.
Trek to Tengboche
The long descent begins. Retrace the Imja Valley through Pangboche and drop back through the rhododendron forest to Tengboche. After five days above 4,000m the return to richer air is immediate. Your legs will feel the summit day. Take it steady and let the descent do the work.
Trek to Namche Bazaar
The descent routes through Khumjung, a classic Sherpa village with views back toward the peaks you have just been climbing. Drop into Namche for the final night in the Khumbu. The perspective has changed since you last walked this path — you crossed the 6,000m line since then.
Trek to Lukla
Final day on trail. Descend steeply from Namche through Monjo, past the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint, through Phakding and back to Lukla. Familiar ground that moves quickly. Celebration dinner with your guide and crew in Lukla tonight.
Fly to Kathmandu (Buffer Day 1)
Morning flight back to Kathmandu, weather-dependent. MountainKick handles any rebooking at no extra cost. If the flight operates as scheduled, the afternoon is yours for Kathmandu sightseeing, gear shopping in Thamel, or rest. This is the first of two built-in buffer days for Lukla delays.
Leisure Day and Farewell Dinner (Buffer Day 2)
Free day in Kathmandu. Visit Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, or the Durbar Squares, or simply recover. This is also the backup buffer if the Day 14 flight was delayed. In the evening your MountainKick guides join you for a traditional Nepali farewell dinner a proper celebration of your summit.
Final Departure
Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport. Hotel checkout at 12:00 PM. Luggage storage available if your flight departs later. Your NMA summit certificate for Island Peak is handed over before departure.
3D Route Map
Includes & Excludes
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Airport and hotel transfers Both directions, private vehicle
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Hotel in Kathmandu, 2 nights 3-star, twin-sharing, breakfast included
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Teahouse accommodation, 11 nights Twin-sharing throughout
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Expedition tents at base camp, 2 nights Professional setup with dining tent, toilet tent, and cook
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All meals, Day 2 to Day 15 Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner at teahouses and base camp
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Farewell dinner in Kathmandu Traditional Nepali meal on return night
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Kathmandu to Lukla return flights Includes Ramechhap ground transfers in peak season
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Trekking guide Government-licensed, full time from arrival to departure
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Dedicated climbing Sherpa One certified climbing Sherpa per group on the full summit attempt
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Assistant climbing Sherpa Added for groups of 4 or more, improves safety ratio on technical sections
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Porter service One porter per two trekkers, 20kg load limit strictly enforced
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Sagarmatha National Park permit Arranged by MountainKick
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TIMS card Trekkers' Information Management System card
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Khumbu Pasang Lhamu permit Required for all trekkers in the Khumbu region since 2023
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Island Peak climbing permit Official NMA permit, arranged and paid by MountainKick
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Group technical climbing equipment Fixed ropes, ice screws, snow anchors, group safety hardware
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Mountaineering training at base camp Full session covering crampons, ice axe, jumar, fixed ropes, and crevasse rescue
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NMA summit certificate Issued on successful summit, collected by MountainKick on your behalf
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Duffel bag Yours to keep
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All government taxes and fees Nothing hidden
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International flights To and from Kathmandu
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Nepal visa 30-day on arrival $50 USD, bring cash and two passport photos
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Meals in Kathmandu Except farewell dinner on Day 15
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Personal climbing equipment Mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet — all rentable in Kathmandu
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Travel insurance Must cover high-altitude mountaineering to 6,200m and helicopter evacuation
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Personal expenses Hot showers, WiFi, soft drinks, alcohol, laundry
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Tips Customary but not mandatory, 10–15% of trip cost is the general range
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Helicopter rescue costs Must be covered by your travel insurance before departure
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Supplemental oxygen Available at base camp for emergencies only
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Extra Kathmandu nights If Lukla delays extend beyond the two built-in buffer days
Enhance Your Trek
We Handle the Details
FreeWhere You'll Sleep & What You'll Eat
In Kathmandu you stay at a 3-star hotel in Thamel on a twin-sharing basis with breakfast included. Single supplement available on request. Upgrades to 4 or 5-star properties can be arranged.
On the trek you stay in teahouses from Phakding to Chhukung. Rooms are simple — a bed, blankets, and a window. Shared bathrooms at most stops. Hot showers available at Lukla, Namche, and Dingboche at an extra charge of $3–5. Above Dingboche facilities reduce significantly. Chhukung teahouses are basic but fully functional during climbing season.
At Island Peak Base Camp you sleep in expedition tents on twin-sharing basis for two nights. A dedicated cook prepares all meals in a dining tent. Toilet tent on site. No electricity or charging at base camp — keep your power bank in your sleeping bag overnight.
Single rooms are limited above Namche during peak season. Book ahead through your guide.
All meals are included from Day 2 through Day 15. Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner at teahouses and base camp, plus the farewell dinner in Kathmandu. The only meals outside the package are lunches and dinners in Kathmandu other than the farewell dinner.
At teahouses dal bhat is the best option — filling, reliable, free refills. Pasta, noodles, eggs, and soup available everywhere below Dingboche. Above that, menus simplify and portions shrink. Avoid meat above Namche. At base camp your cook prepares hot meals three times a day. High-calorie food is prioritised in the days before the summit.
| Hot shower | $3–5 |
| WiFi | $2–5 per day where available |
| Soft drinks and snacks | $2–5 |
| Charging devices | $2–5 per device |
| Personal climbing gear rental | $15–30 per day in Kathmandu |
What Our Trekkers Say
“Island Peak Climbing”
We did Island Peak with MountainKick and it was a genuinely good experience. Kumar looked after us during the trek and kept the whole journey comfortable. On the climbing section, Tenzing was excellent, calm, experienced, and clear about what to expect before we started up. Reaching the summit was incredible,…
“Island Peak Adventure”
A fantastic trip from start to finish. Jeevan guided the trekking side and made sure we were properly prepared for the climb ahead. Tenzing led us on Island Peak itself and gave us a lot of confidence through the harder sections. It was tough going, but reaching the top made…
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need climbing experience to attempt Island Peak?
No. Island Peak is specifically designed as an entry point into technical Himalayan mountaineering. A full training session runs at base camp on Day 9 covering crampon technique, ice axe arrest position, ascending and descending fixed ropes with a jumar, and crevasse crossing on a ladder system. What you need is solid multi-day trekking fitness and the resolve for a long pre-dawn summit push. Prior mountaineering experience is an advantage but not a requirement.
How difficult is Island Peak?
Island Peak is graded Alpine PD+ and rated Level 5 Expedition on our scale. The trekking approach is Level 4 Hard. Summit day is the crux: a 2:00 AM start, 400m of steep scree in the dark, glacier travel, crevasse crossings on fixed ladders, fixed rope sections on jumar, and a near-vertical 100m headwall before the exposed summit ridge. Round trip from base camp is 8 to 14 hours depending on conditions and group pace. With proper acclimatisation and an experienced climbing Sherpa, the summit success rate is 85 to 95%. See our full difficulty guide.
What happens on summit day exactly?
Alarm at 1:30 AM. Depart base camp by 2:00 AM. The first section is a steep 400m zigzag on rocky scree where hands are required in places — trekking boots for this section, mountaineering boots carried until crampon point. At the snow line you put on crampons, rope up, and attach your jumar. The route crosses several crevasses on fixed ladders, ascends fixed rope sections up the glacier, then tackles the final 100m near-vertical headwall of snow and ice. The summit ridge is exposed and narrow. From the top: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse simultaneously. Descent back to Chhukung the same day.
What personal climbing gear do I need?
The group equipment — fixed ropes, ice screws, snow anchors — is provided. Personal technical gear (mountaineering boots, 12-point crampons, ice axe 60–70cm, climbing harness, helmet, jumar, carabiners) is not included but all items are available to rent in Kathmandu. Mountaineering boots are the most important item. They must be rigid-soled, crampon-compatible, and insulated for high altitude. Do not attempt to use standard trekking boots above crampon point. MountainKick connects you with trusted rental shops at the pre-expedition briefing.
How is this different from EBC with Island Peak?
This 16-day expedition goes directly to Island Peak via the Chhukung Valley. No Everest Base Camp, no Kala Patthar. Every day is structured around the summit. If you want both EBC and Island Peak in one trip, that is the EBC with Island Peak (20 days). If you want the most complete Khumbu circuit plus the summit, see the Everest High Passes with Island Peak (23 days).
Are all meals really included?
Yes. Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner from Day 2 through Day 15 is included — at teahouses on the trek and at base camp where your cook prepares hot meals. The farewell dinner in Kathmandu is also included. The only meals outside the package are lunches and dinners in Kathmandu other than the farewell dinner. Your main out-of-pocket costs on the trail are personal extras: hot showers ($3–5), WiFi ($2–5), and soft drinks. Budget $10–20 per day for personal spending.
How is acclimatisation structured?
The itinerary builds altitude gradually over 8 days before the summit: Namche (3,440m), Tengboche (3,860m), Dingboche (4,410m), Chhukung (4,730m), base camp (5,087m). A dedicated acclimatisation day in Namche on Day 4 uses the climb high, sleep low principle — hike to 3,880m, sleep at 3,440m. A full rest and training day at base camp on Day 9 means you never rush to the summit. This structure gives your body 8 days to adapt before the technical section begins.
What permits do I need?
Three permits are required and all are arranged by MountainKick as part of the package: the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit, and the Island Peak Climbing Permit issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The NMA permit is the key document for the summit — it is what entitles you to attempt the climb legally and what your summit certificate is issued against. Bring your passport and two passport-sized photos.
How is altitude sickness managed?
Your climbing guide carries a pulse oximeter, supplemental oxygen, and a portable altitude chamber (Gamow bag) at all times above Namche. Oxygen saturation is monitored daily. The itinerary builds altitude gradually with one structured acclimatisation day. Descending 300 to 500m relieves most symptoms quickly. Talk to your doctor about Diamox before you leave — it is available in Kathmandu but better discussed beforehand. Read our altitude sickness guide for a full breakdown.
What if weather prevents the summit?
Safety is non-negotiable. If conditions are unsafe on summit day your climbing guide postpones the attempt. Two buffer days are built into Days 14 and 15 for exactly this scenario as well as Lukla flight delays. Summit decisions are made by the climbing guide based on wind speed, visibility, temperature, and route conditions on the night. Turning back is always the right call and your guide will make it without hesitation.
What is the guide to climber ratio?
One dedicated climbing Sherpa is provided for the group. For groups of 4 or more an additional assistant climbing Sherpa joins the team. All climbing Sherpas hold government-issued NMA climbing licences and carry first aid equipment and an oximeter. On the technical sections of the summit route your Sherpa provides hands-on support including short-roping where needed.
What travel insurance do I need?
Mandatory. Your policy must specifically cover high-altitude mountaineering to at least 6,200m and emergency helicopter evacuation. Standard travel insurance and many trekking policies exclude climbing above 6,000m. Read the altitude coverage ceiling in your policy documents before leaving home. Helicopter rescue services require insurance pre-authorisation before dispatch. Insurance cannot be purchased in Nepal. Helicopter evacuation from the Khumbu costs $3,000 to $6,000.
What about the Lukla flights?
Round-trip Lukla flights are included. During peak seasons (March to May and October to November) flights operate from Manthali Airport in Ramechhap, a 5 to 6 hour drive from Kathmandu requiring a 2:30 AM hotel departure. MountainKick arranges all transport and handles weather rebooking at no extra cost. Two buffer days are built into the itinerary. Still, schedule your international departure at least 2 days after Day 16 if you can. More detail in our Ramechhap flight guide.
When is the best time to climb Island Peak?
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). October and November give the most stable weather, clearest skies, and best fixed rope conditions on the upper mountain. March and April are warmer with rhododendrons in bloom on the approach and Everest expedition teams active in the Khumbu. Avoid monsoon (June to August) — the headwall becomes a serious mixed climbing problem and Lukla flights get delayed frequently. Winter departures (December to February) are possible but temperatures at base camp can drop below -20°C and the headwall conditions are significantly more technical.
What visa do I need?
Tourist visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport. For a 16-day trip get the 30-day visa to include buffer days. Current fees: 30-day $50 USD. Bring USD cash, two passport-sized photos, and a passport valid for at least 6 months. Online pre-application available through Nepal’s Department of Immigration.
Departure Dates & Pricing
No upcoming fixed departures are scheduled at the moment. Contact us to arrange a private departure on dates that suit you.
Can't find a group date that works? Run this trip privately on any date you choose. Same route and guides, just your own group. The price depends on how many of you there are.
Ready to go? Request your preferred dates or message us on WhatsApp. We confirm availability within a few hours.
We never force our customers to follow our set itinerary. You can customize your itinerary exactly the way you want. Please share with us your ideas.
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20% deposit: due on booking Secures your place on the departure. The deposit is non-refundable. We also need a copy of your passport.
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80% balance: due on arrival Pay the rest in Kathmandu before the trip starts. Bank transfer, cash, or card (4% card fee).
| Cancel before you arrive | Deposit not refunded, nothing more to pay |
| Cancel after the pre-trip meeting | No refund |
| Date or name change | USD 200 per person |
| MountainKick cancels trip | Full refund or reschedule |
Weather delays and extra days cost extra, so travel insurance is required. We give you documents for any claim.
Read the full terms and conditionsPacking List
Footwear
ⓘ Two separate boot systems are required. Trekking boots for Days 2 to 9. Mountaineering boots from crampon point on summit day. Both must be broken in before you arrive. Do not attempt to summit in trekking boots.
Clothing and Layers
ⓘ Temperature at base camp drops below -20°C overnight. An expedition-weight down parka is required, not a standard trekking down jacket. The layering system is non-negotiable at this altitude.
Head, Hands and Neck
ⓘ Wind chill at the headwall can reach -30°C before dawn. Expedition mittens are not optional. Glacier goggles are separate from sunglasses and required for white-out conditions.
Technical Climbing Gear
ⓘ Group equipment (fixed ropes, ice screws, snow anchors) is provided by MountainKick. All personal technical gear below must be sourced by you. Rental in Kathmandu costs approximately $100 to $150 for the full set. Inspect all rental gear carefully before accepting it.
Gear and Equipment
ⓘ Your porter carries the duffel to base camp. Yaks or additional porter carry duffel from Chhukung to base camp. Keep your daypack under 6kg for summit day — you are carrying technical gear on top of the usual kit.
Health and Hydration
ⓘ Your climbing guide carries supplemental oxygen, a Gamow bag, and a pulse oximeter. This is your personal kit for day-to-day needs. Talk to your doctor about Diamox before you leave. We do not provide or recommend it ourselves.
Toiletries
ⓘ No showers at base camp. Wet wipes are your hygiene solution for two nights on the glacier. Quick-dry fabrics only across 16 days.
Documents and Money
ⓘ All meals are included so daily cash needs are minimal. ATMs in Lukla, Namche, and Khumjung. No ATMs beyond Namche on this route. Budget $10 to $20 per day for personal extras only.
Trekking in Winter (Dec to Feb)
Trekking in Monsoon (Jun to Aug)
⚠ Monsoon is not recommended for Island Peak climbing. The headwall becomes a serious mixed climbing problem with unstable ice and poor visibility, Lukla flights get delayed frequently, and the approach trails are muddy and hazardous. Spring and autumn are the only reliable seasons for a safe summit attempt.
Leave at home
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Jeans and cotton clothing Cotton stays wet and causes dangerous chilling above 5,000m
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Trekking boots above crampon point You need two boot systems. Attempting the headwall in trekking boots is dangerous.
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Standard -10°C sleeping bag Base camp drops below -20°C. Minimum -20°C rated bag required.
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Standard trekking down jacket only Not enough for base camp nights. An expedition parka is required.
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Laptop No need and the weight is punishing on summit day
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Valuables and jewellery Leave at the hotel in Kathmandu
Crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, jumar, glacier goggles, mountaineering boots, sleeping bags, and down parkas can all be rented in Kathmandu or Chhukung. A full personal technical climbing kit rents for approximately $100 to $150 for the expedition. If your shoe size is 12 or above, bring your own mountaineering boots as larger sizes are not available to rent in Nepal. MountainKick connects you with trusted shops at the pre-expedition briefing. A duffel bag is provided to every climber as part of the package.
Island Peak Climbing
Talk to Kumar and the team before you commit. Ask about gear, fitness, altitude or a private group.
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