Summit Island Peak (6,189m) with full mountaineering training at base camp and a licensed climbing Sherpa on the rope with you from 2 AM to the top.
Stand on your first Himalayan summit with Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam on the same horizon
One dedicated climbing Sherpa on the rope with you from base camp to the summit and back
Crampons, ice axe, jumar, fixed ropes, and crevasse crossing covered at base camp before summit day
Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner from Day 2 to Day 15, including base camp and farewell dinner
Island Peak (Imja Tse) sits at 6,189m in the Imja Valley, surrounded by Lhotse, Nuptse, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam. It was first summited in 1953 by members of the British Everest Expedition as a training climb before their Everest attempt. The same route they used is the route climbed today. It is the most popular trekking peak above 6,000m in Nepal and the standard entry point into technical Himalayan mountaineering.
This 16-day expedition goes directly to the summit via the Chhukung Valley. No Everest Base Camp detour, no side trips. Every acclimatisation day, every camp choice, and every rest day is structured around one objective: putting you in the best possible physical condition to reach the top. The route follows the classic Khumbu trail to Namche, then branches into the quieter Imja Valley through Dingboche and Chhukung to base camp at 5,087m. Summit day starts at 2:00 AM. The ascent covers steep scree to crampon point, glacier travel, crevasse crossings on fixed ladders, fixed rope sections on jumar, and a near-vertical 100m headwall before the exposed summit ridge. Round trip from base camp is 8 to 14 hours depending on conditions.
No prior mountaineering experience is required. A full technical training session runs at base camp on Day 9 covering crampon technique, ice axe arrest position, ascending and descending fixed ropes, and crevasse rescue. What you do need is solid multi-day trekking fitness and the resolve for a long pre-dawn summit push. If you want Island Peak combined with Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, that is a separate 20-day itinerary: EBC with Island Peak.
All meals are included throughout: every breakfast, lunch, and dinner from Day 2 through Day 15 at teahouses and base camp, plus the farewell dinner in Kathmandu. Two buffer days are built in for Lukla flight delays.
A MountainKick representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel. That evening your climbing guide runs a full pre-expedition briefing covering the 16-day route, gear check, permits, summit day sequence, and Lukla flight logistics. Lay out all your kit tonight.
Early morning flight to Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary Airport. Porters organise loads while you prepare for the first day on trail. The route drops gently alongside the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest and Sherpa settlements to Phakding. An easy introduction by design. During peak season (Mar–May, Oct–Nov) flights depart from Ramechhap, requiring a 2:30 AM hotel departure.
The trail follows the Dudh Koshi River crossing suspension bridges before entering Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. The final two hours are a steep sustained climb into Namche. On a clear day you get your first view of Everest above the ridge before reaching town.
First acclimatisation day using the climb high, sleep low principle. We hike to the Everest View Hotel at 3,880m with clear sight lines to Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, then return to Namche to sleep lower. Time to visit the Sherpa Culture Museum or browse expedition gear shops in town.
The trail drops to the Dudh Koshi River at Phunki Tenga then climbs through rhododendron forest to Tengboche Monastery, the spiritual centre of the Khumbu. Founded in 1916 and rebuilt after a 1989 fire, the monastery sits on a ridge with a full panorama of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Evening prayers are worth attending.
The trail passes through Pangboche, home to the oldest monastery in the Khumbu, before climbing into the open Imja Valley above the tree line. Island Peak appears on the horizon for the first time from Dingboche, rising distinctly above the surrounding glaciers exactly as Eric Shipton described it in 1953 — like an island in a sea of ice.
A shorter day that gains altitude steadily through the upper Imja Valley. Chhukung sits in one of the most dramatic natural amphitheatres in the Himalaya: Lhotse and Nuptse to the north, Baruntse and Cho Polu to the east, Ama Dablam to the south, and Island Peak directly ahead. This is your staging ground. Rest, eat well, and prepare your kit for base camp tomorrow.
The approach follows the Imja Glacier moraine through ice-polished boulders and shifting seracs. Island Peak rises directly ahead as you climb. On arrival your climbing guide runs the route briefing, checks all equipment, and confirms the summit plan. Early dinner and early bed — summit day is two days away but the preparation starts now.
A full day on the glacier before the summit attempt. Your climbing guide leads hands-on training covering crampon technique on snow and ice, ice axe arrest position, ascending and descending fixed ropes with a jumar, crevasse crossing on a ladder system, and rope team protocol. This is also your opportunity to ask every question about the summit route. Early dinner, early sleep. Alarm goes off at 1:30 AM tomorrow.
Alarm at 1:30 AM. Depart base camp by 2:00 AM. The first section crosses rocky scree on a steep 400m zigzag path — trekking boots, hands required in places. At crampon point the glacier begins. Rope up, crampons on, jumar out. The route crosses several crevasses on fixed ladders, ascends fixed rope sections, and finishes on a near-vertical 100m headwall of snow and ice before the exposed summit ridge at 6,189m. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse fill the horizon. Descend in full to Chhukung for the night.
The long descent begins. Retrace the Imja Valley through Pangboche and drop back through the rhododendron forest to Tengboche. After five days above 4,000m the return to richer air is immediate. Your legs will feel the summit day. Take it steady and let the descent do the work.
The descent routes through Khumjung, a classic Sherpa village with views back toward the peaks you have just been climbing. Drop into Namche for the final night in the Khumbu. The perspective has changed since you last walked this path — you crossed the 6,000m line since then.
Final day on trail. Descend steeply from Namche through Monjo, past the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint, through Phakding and back to Lukla. Familiar ground that moves quickly. Celebration dinner with your guide and crew in Lukla tonight.
Morning flight back to Kathmandu, weather-dependent. MountainKick handles any rebooking at no extra cost. If the flight operates as scheduled, the afternoon is yours for Kathmandu sightseeing, gear shopping in Thamel, or rest. This is the first of two built-in buffer days for Lukla delays.
Free day in Kathmandu. Visit Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, or the Durbar Squares, or simply recover. This is also the backup buffer if the Day 14 flight was delayed. In the evening your MountainKick guides join you for a traditional Nepali farewell dinner a proper celebration of your summit.
Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport. Hotel checkout at 12:00 PM. Luggage storage available if your flight departs later. Your NMA summit certificate for Island Peak is handed over before departure.
In Kathmandu you stay at a 3-star hotel in Thamel on a twin-sharing basis with breakfast included. Single supplement available on request. Upgrades to 4 or 5-star properties can be arranged.
On the trek you stay in teahouses from Phakding to Chhukung. Rooms are simple — a bed, blankets, and a window. Shared bathrooms at most stops. Hot showers available at Lukla, Namche, and Dingboche at an extra charge of $3–5. Above Dingboche facilities reduce significantly. Chhukung teahouses are basic but fully functional during climbing season.
At Island Peak Base Camp you sleep in expedition tents on twin-sharing basis for two nights. A dedicated cook prepares all meals in a dining tent. Toilet tent on site. No electricity or charging at base camp — keep your power bank in your sleeping bag overnight.
Single rooms are limited above Namche during peak season. Book ahead through your guide.
All meals are included from Day 2 through Day 15. Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner at teahouses and base camp, plus the farewell dinner in Kathmandu. The only meals outside the package are lunches and dinners in Kathmandu other than the farewell dinner.
At teahouses dal bhat is the best option — filling, reliable, free refills. Pasta, noodles, eggs, and soup available everywhere below Dingboche. Above that, menus simplify and portions shrink. Avoid meat above Namche. At base camp your cook prepares hot meals three times a day. High-calorie food is prioritised in the days before the summit.
| Hot shower | $3–5 |
| WiFi | $2–5 per day where available |
| Soft drinks and snacks | $2–5 |
| Charging devices | $2–5 per device |
| Personal climbing gear rental | $15–30 per day in Kathmandu |
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No. Island Peak is specifically designed as an entry point into technical Himalayan mountaineering. A full training session runs at base camp on Day 9 covering crampon technique, ice axe arrest position, ascending and descending fixed ropes with a jumar, and crevasse crossing on a ladder system. What you need is solid multi-day trekking fitness and the resolve for a long pre-dawn summit push. Prior mountaineering experience is an advantage but not a requirement.
Island Peak is graded Alpine PD+ and rated Level 5 Expedition on our scale. The trekking approach is Level 4 Hard. Summit day is the crux: a 2:00 AM start, 400m of steep scree in the dark, glacier travel, crevasse crossings on fixed ladders, fixed rope sections on jumar, and a near-vertical 100m headwall before the exposed summit ridge. Round trip from base camp is 8 to 14 hours depending on conditions and group pace. With proper acclimatisation and an experienced climbing Sherpa, the summit success rate is 85 to 95%. See our full difficulty guide.
Alarm at 1:30 AM. Depart base camp by 2:00 AM. The first section is a steep 400m zigzag on rocky scree where hands are required in places — trekking boots for this section, mountaineering boots carried until crampon point. At the snow line you put on crampons, rope up, and attach your jumar. The route crosses several crevasses on fixed ladders, ascends fixed rope sections up the glacier, then tackles the final 100m near-vertical headwall of snow and ice. The summit ridge is exposed and narrow. From the top: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse simultaneously. Descent back to Chhukung the same day.
The group equipment — fixed ropes, ice screws, snow anchors — is provided. Personal technical gear (mountaineering boots, 12-point crampons, ice axe 60–70cm, climbing harness, helmet, jumar, carabiners) is not included but all items are available to rent in Kathmandu. Mountaineering boots are the most important item. They must be rigid-soled, crampon-compatible, and insulated for high altitude. Do not attempt to use standard trekking boots above crampon point. MountainKick connects you with trusted rental shops at the pre-expedition briefing.
This 16-day expedition goes directly to Island Peak via the Chhukung Valley. No Everest Base Camp, no Kala Patthar. Every day is structured around the summit. If you want both EBC and Island Peak in one trip, that is the EBC with Island Peak (20 days). If you want the most complete Khumbu circuit plus the summit, see the Everest High Passes with Island Peak (23 days).
Yes. Every breakfast, lunch, and dinner from Day 2 through Day 15 is included — at teahouses on the trek and at base camp where your cook prepares hot meals. The farewell dinner in Kathmandu is also included. The only meals outside the package are lunches and dinners in Kathmandu other than the farewell dinner. Your main out-of-pocket costs on the trail are personal extras: hot showers ($3–5), WiFi ($2–5), and soft drinks. Budget $10–20 per day for personal spending.
The itinerary builds altitude gradually over 8 days before the summit: Namche (3,440m), Tengboche (3,860m), Dingboche (4,410m), Chhukung (4,730m), base camp (5,087m). A dedicated acclimatisation day in Namche on Day 4 uses the climb high, sleep low principle — hike to 3,880m, sleep at 3,440m. A full rest and training day at base camp on Day 9 means you never rush to the summit. This structure gives your body 8 days to adapt before the technical section begins.
Three permits are required and all are arranged by MountainKick as part of the package: the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit, and the Island Peak Climbing Permit issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The NMA permit is the key document for the summit — it is what entitles you to attempt the climb legally and what your summit certificate is issued against. Bring your passport and two passport-sized photos.
Your climbing guide carries a pulse oximeter, supplemental oxygen, and a portable altitude chamber (Gamow bag) at all times above Namche. Oxygen saturation is monitored daily. The itinerary builds altitude gradually with one structured acclimatisation day. Descending 300 to 500m relieves most symptoms quickly. Talk to your doctor about Diamox before you leave — it is available in Kathmandu but better discussed beforehand. Read our altitude sickness guide for a full breakdown.
Safety is non-negotiable. If conditions are unsafe on summit day your climbing guide postpones the attempt. Two buffer days are built into Days 14 and 15 for exactly this scenario as well as Lukla flight delays. Summit decisions are made by the climbing guide based on wind speed, visibility, temperature, and route conditions on the night. Turning back is always the right call and your guide will make it without hesitation.
One dedicated climbing Sherpa is provided for the group. For groups of 4 or more an additional assistant climbing Sherpa joins the team. All climbing Sherpas hold government-issued NMA climbing licences and carry first aid equipment and an oximeter. On the technical sections of the summit route your Sherpa provides hands-on support including short-roping where needed.
Mandatory. Your policy must specifically cover high-altitude mountaineering to at least 6,200m and emergency helicopter evacuation. Standard travel insurance and many trekking policies exclude climbing above 6,000m. Read the altitude coverage ceiling in your policy documents before leaving home. Helicopter rescue services require insurance pre-authorisation before dispatch. Insurance cannot be purchased in Nepal. Helicopter evacuation from the Khumbu costs $3,000 to $6,000.
Round-trip Lukla flights are included. During peak seasons (March to May and October to November) flights operate from Manthali Airport in Ramechhap, a 5 to 6 hour drive from Kathmandu requiring a 2:30 AM hotel departure. MountainKick arranges all transport and handles weather rebooking at no extra cost. Two buffer days are built into the itinerary. Still, schedule your international departure at least 2 days after Day 16 if you can. More detail in our Ramechhap flight guide.
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). October and November give the most stable weather, clearest skies, and best fixed rope conditions on the upper mountain. March and April are warmer with rhododendrons in bloom on the approach and Everest expedition teams active in the Khumbu. Avoid monsoon (June to August) — the headwall becomes a serious mixed climbing problem and Lukla flights get delayed frequently. Winter departures (December to February) are possible but temperatures at base camp can drop below -20°C and the headwall conditions are significantly more technical.
Tourist visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport. For a 16-day trip get the 30-day visa to include buffer days. Current fees: 30-day $50 USD. Bring USD cash, two passport-sized photos, and a passport valid for at least 6 months. Online pre-application available through Nepal’s Department of Immigration.
No upcoming fixed departures are scheduled at the moment. Contact us to arrange a private departure on dates that suit you.
| 30+ days before departure | Deposit forfeited, balance refunded in full |
| 15–29 days before departure | 50% of total trip cost charged |
| Under 15 days | No refund |
| MountainKick cancels trip | Full refund or reschedule |
We give you the power to choose the departure date that suits your group best. A private trip is a perfect solution if you can’t find a published departure date that you and your companions agree on. You can set up a private departure for most of the trips we offer.
Ready to go? Request your preferred dates or message Kumar directly on WhatsApp — he'll confirm availability within a few hours.
We never force our customers to follow our set itinerary. You can customize your itinerary exactly the way you want. Please share with us your ideas.
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| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Waterproof trekking boots, high-ankle | 1 pair | For the full trekking approach Lukla to Chhukung. Well broken in, deep-cut traction sole. |
| Mountaineering boots, double or triple layer | 1 pair | Rigid sole, crampon-compatible with toe and heel welts, insulated to -20°C minimum. B3-rated recommended. Rentable in Kathmandu. |
| 12-point steel crampons | 1 pair | Must be compatible with your mountaineering boots. Test fit together before the expedition. Anti-balling plates essential. Rentable in Kathmandu. |
| Full-length waterproof gaiters | 1 pair | Keeps snow and debris out of both boot types on approach and summit day |
| Camp sandals or flip flops | 1 pair | For teahouse evenings and base camp downtime |
| Hiking socks, merino wool | 4 to 5 pairs | Avoid cotton. Merino regulates temperature and resists odour. |
| Heavyweight expedition socks | 2 pairs | For summit day inside mountaineering boots and cold base camp nights |
| Liner socks | 3 pairs | Blister prevention on long descent days |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal tops, synthetic or merino | 3 | One to trek, one to sleep, one spare. Never cotton. |
| Thermal bottoms | 2 | Sleep in one set, trek in the other |
| Fleece jacket | 1 | Main mid-layer for trekking below Dingboche |
| Down jacket, 700 fill or higher | 1 | For teahouse evenings on the approach section |
| Expedition down parka, 800 fill minimum | 1 | Essential for base camp nights and summit day. Standard trekking down is not enough at -20°C. Rentable in Kathmandu. |
| Insulated down pants | 1 | For base camp nights and the pre-dawn summit departure. Significantly warmer than softshell alone. |
| Waterproof shell jacket, Gore-Tex or similar | 1 | Must have a hood. Used above Namche and on summit day |
| Waterproof shell pants, full side zip | 1 | Wind and precipitation protection on the upper mountain |
| Softshell pants | 1 pair | For trekking above Namche and base camp daytime |
| Trekking pants, quick-dry | 1 pair | For the lower approach section below Namche |
| Sun hat, wide-brimmed | 1 | UV is extreme above Namche |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Warm beanie | 1 | For cold mornings and teahouse evenings on approach |
| Balaclava | 1 | Full face protection for the 2:00 AM summit departure and headwall section |
| Neck gaiter or buff | 2 | Wind, dust, cold, and the Khumbu Cough |
| Liner gloves, touchscreen compatible | 1 pair | For trail use and phone access |
| Insulated fleece gloves | 1 pair | Main trekking glove above Namche |
| Waterproof shell mittens with down liner | 1 pair | For summit day. Liner gloves alone are not enough at the headwall. |
| Polarized sunglasses, Cat 3 to 4 | 1 pair | For the trekking approach and lower glacier sections |
| Glacier goggles, Cat 4 | 1 pair | For white-out conditions and high wind on the upper glacier and headwall. Essential, not optional. |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing harness, alpine style | 1 | Adjustable, fits over all clothing layers. Must be able to put on and remove without stepping through leg loops at 2:00 AM in the dark. |
| Helmet, lightweight climbing | 1 | Under 400g, secure adjustment with gloved hands. Protects against falling ice on the headwall. |
| Ice axe, 60 to 70cm | 1 | Standard mountaineering axe for self-arrest and front-pointing on steep snow. Steel head, ergonomic grip. |
| Ascender (jumar), left or right hand | 1 | For climbing fixed rope sections above crampon point. Your guide shows you the technique at base camp. |
| Locking carabiners, pear-shaped | 3 | For clipping into anchors and fixed lines. Screwgate only, not auto-lock. |
| Non-locking carabiners | 4 | General mountaineering use |
| Belay/descend device, ATC or figure-8 | 1 | For controlled descent on fixed ropes. Covered in base camp training. |
| Prusik cord, 6mm, 4 to 5 metres | 1 | For backup knots and crevasse rescue. Bring as one piece, do not cut. |
| Ice axe leash | 1 | Prevents losing the axe on steep sections |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Daypack, 35 to 50L | 1 | Larger than standard trekking daypack to accommodate technical gear on summit day |
| Sleeping bag, rated to -20°C minimum | 1 | Standard -10°C bags are not enough for base camp nights. Down fill, not synthetic. |
| Sleeping bag liner | 1 | Adds 3 to 5°C warmth across 16 nights |
| Trekking poles, collapsible | 1 pair | For the approach and descent. Leave at base camp on summit day. |
| Headlamp and spare batteries or USB rechargeable | 1 | Essential for 2:00 AM summit departure. Cold destroys batteries at 5,000m. Keep spare set in sleeping bag. |
| Insulated water bottles, 1L wide-mouth | 2 | Standard bottles freeze above 5,500m. Insulated sleeves or vacuum-insulated bottles only. |
| Water purification tablets or UV purifier | 1 | Saves money and reduces plastic across 14 trekking days |
| Power bank, 20,000mAh | 1 | No charging at base camp. Cold kills phone batteries. Keep in sleeping bag overnight. |
| Dry bags | 3 | Electronics, documents, and spare dry clothes inside duffel |
| Pack rain cover | 1 | For daypack on approach days and summit day |
| Small padlock | 1 | For duffel bag at teahouses |
| Pee bottle with wide mouth | 1 | For base camp nights when temperatures drop below -15°C. Leaving the tent at 2:00 AM is not pleasant. |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Personal first aid kit | 1 | Blister treatment, second skin, antiseptic, bandages, ibuprofen, Imodium |
| Sunscreen SPF 50 | 2 | Reapply every 2 hours above Namche. Glacier reflection doubles UV intensity. Bring a spare. |
| Lip balm with SPF | 2 | Cold air, wind, and altitude will crack your lips within days. |
| Electrolyte powder sachets | 20 to 25 | Hydration at altitude is harder than it sounds. Mix into water daily throughout the expedition. |
| High protein snacks | As needed | Trail mix, protein bars, energy gels for summit day. Teahouse food is carb-heavy. |
| Throat lozenges | 1 pack | The Khumbu Cough is common above 4,000m. Dry cold air at base camp is particularly harsh. |
| Hand and toe warmers | 10 pairs | For summit day and base camp mornings. Stock up in Kathmandu. |
| Anti-nausea medication | 1 pack | Altitude can cause nausea on summit day. Discuss options with your doctor. |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Quick-dry towel, microfiber | 1 | Teahouses do not provide towels |
| Pillowcase | 1 | 14 nights of shared teahouse pillows. A personal pillowcase is worth it. |
| Hand sanitizer | 3 small | Water freezes at base camp. Sanitizer is your hygiene backup for two nights. |
| Biodegradable wet wipes | 3 to 4 packs | No showers at base camp, limited above Dingboche. More packs for a 16-day expedition. |
| Toilet paper | 4 to 5 rolls | Toilet tent at base camp, teahouses can run out on the approach. |
| Earplugs | 2 pairs | Teahouse walls are thin. 14 nights of shared accommodation. |
| Item | Qty | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Passport, valid 6 months minimum | 1 | Keep a photocopy separate from the original |
| Passport photos | 4 extras | For permits and NMA registration. More photos required for climbing permits than trekking only. |
| Travel insurance document | 1 | Must cover mountaineering to 6,200m and helicopter evacuation. Print a hard copy. |
| Cash, Nepali rupees | As needed | Budget $10 to $20 per day for personal extras. Small denominations essential. |
| Trek and climb permit copies | 1 set | We handle all permits. Carry your copies on trail. |
| Item | Note |
|---|---|
| Expedition down suit or onesie | At -30°C wind chill on the headwall, layered down parka and pants may not be enough. A one-piece suit is the safest option in winter. |
| Extra hand and toe warmers | Double the quantity for winter departures. Temperatures at base camp can reach -25°C. |
| Neoprene face mask | Balaclava alone is not enough at -30°C wind chill on the exposed summit ridge |
| Insulated water bottle with additional sleeve | Water freezes faster at winter temperatures. Double insulation required. |
| Item | Note |
|---|---|
| Rain cover for backpack | Your daypack will get completely soaked on the approach |
| Heavy waterproof gaiters | Upgrade from standard for mud and standing water below Namche |
| Extra dry bags | Everything inside the duffel needs waterproofing during monsoon |
| Extra quick-dry layers | Nothing dries overnight during monsoon at any altitude |
Crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, jumar, glacier goggles, mountaineering boots, sleeping bags, and down parkas can all be rented in Kathmandu or Chhukung. A full personal technical climbing kit rents for approximately $100 to $150 for the expedition. If your shoe size is 12 or above, bring your own mountaineering boots as larger sizes are not available to rent in Nepal. MountainKick connects you with trusted shops at the pre-expedition briefing. A duffel bag is provided to every climber as part of the package.
Kumar and the team have guided this route for over a decade. Ask anything — gear, fitness, altitude, private groups — before you commit.
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