The bus follows the Prithvi Highway west before turning north into the Marsyangdi valley. Terraced rice fields give way to forested hillsides as the mountains start closing in around Besisahar. It is a long day in a seat but the scenery does the work. Stock up on any last supplies here the trail starts properly in the morning.

The first full day on foot follows the Marsyangdi River north through farming villages, suspension bridges, and rocky trail. This is the section that vehicle-assisted itineraries skip entirely — subtropical gorges, terraced fields, and the first real sense of the mountains ahead. Your legs will know they have worked by the time Chamje comes into view.

The trail continues north along the Marsyangdi River through dense forest and steep hillsides. Several small villages break up the walking and the river stays close for most of the day. A steady moderate stage that lets you settle into the rhythm of the circuit before the terrain starts getting serious above Chame.

The trail climbs over rocky terrain before easing into the broader valley approaching Chame, the district headquarters of Manang. Pine forest replaces the subtropical vegetation and the first clear views of the Annapurna range open up as you gain height. There is a natural hot spring at Chame worth soaking tired legs in before dinner.

The trail climbs through pine and oak forest past apple orchards and small villages with the first dramatic views of Annapurna II (7,937m) and Pisang Peak (6,091m) appearing through the trees. From Lower Pisang take the upper trail to Upper Pisang for better mountain panoramas and a traditional Tibetan-style monastery worth visiting before dinner.

The high route from Upper Pisang traverses above the valley floor through Ghyaru, a stone-built village with sweeping views of Annapurna II, III, and IV and one of the finest monasteries in the valley. The path stays high all the way to Ngawal with the Annapurna range in near-continuous view. First signs of altitude may appear today. Keep your pace measured.

Descend from Ngawal to join the main trail and stop at Braga before reaching Manang. The 900-year-old monastery here is one of the oldest in the Annapurna region, still housing original thangkas, bronze statues, and Buddhist manuscripts. Manang itself sits in a semi-arid bowl with commanding views across to Gangapurna glacier and is your base for tomorrow’s acclimatisation day.

Do not rest completely today. Hike up to Gangapurna Lake (3,800m) for a shorter option or push to Ice Lake (4,600m) for stronger acclimatisation before the pass. Sleep back in Manang either way. In the afternoon attend the free altitude sickness lecture at the Himalayan Rescue Association station. It covers AMS symptoms and the Thorong La crossing in practical detail.

A steady climb out of the Manang valley following the Jarsang Khola river north toward the pass. Vegetation thins to sparse juniper scrub and the trail opens up to views of Annapurna III, Gangapurna, and Tilicho Peak (7,134m). Yak Kharka means yak pastures and you will likely see herds grazing the hillsides around the settlement. A deliberately short day to keep acclimatisation on track.

Another short but important day as you close in on the pass. The trail crosses a suspension bridge over the Kone Khola, climbs through Ledar, and rises to Thorong Phedi, which means foot of the hill. This is the last settlement before the crossing. Eat a full meal, drink plenty of water, and get to bed early. The alarm goes off at 4am.

Departure at 4am with headlamps to reach the pass before the afternoon winds build. The climb takes 4 to 5 hours through thin, cold air to the prayer flags and small teahouse at the summit. The descent drops 1,600m over 3 to 4 hours into the arid landscape of Mustang. Muktinath temple, sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, marks the end of the crossing.

An early start to climb Lubra Pass (4,020m) through remote high-desert terrain before dropping into Lubra, an ancient Bon culture village rarely visited on standard itineraries. The descent continues through the Kali Gandaki Gorge past Jomsom and south to Marpha, Nepal’s apple capital. The whitewashed Thakali lanes, orchards, and local apple brandy distilleries make it one of the most satisfying stops on the circuit.

The trail follows the Kali Gandaki valley south through traditional Thakali villages and pine forest. Annapurna I (8,091m) and Dhaulagiri (8,167m), two of the world’s ten highest peaks, flank the trail for much of the day. The valley is also known for its black ammonite fossils, sacred to Hindus, which locals collect from the riverbed. A welcome moderate day after yesterday.

A long descent through forests and villages as the vegetation transitions from temperate to subtropical. Tatopani means hot water in Nepali and the natural thermal springs here are exactly what two weeks of hard trekking calls for. The town has good teahouses, small cafes, and a relaxed end-of-high-altitude atmosphere. Soak as long as you like. You have earned it.

A full day to recover before the climbing resumes tomorrow. Back in the hot springs, explore the village, or simply sit and eat well. After the Thorong La crossing and the long descent through the Kali Gandaki, your legs need this. The trail climbs hard to Ghorepani tomorrow so use today properly. This rest day is built into the itinerary for a reason.

A demanding climb back into the mountains through Magar villages and dense rhododendron forest. The route gains nearly 1,700m from the low point of Tatopani and your legs will feel every metre of it. In spring the rhododendrons are in full bloom and the forest turns crimson and pink. Ghorepani is a busy teahouse village and the gateway to Poon Hill tomorrow morning.

Pre-dawn hike to Poon Hill for sunrise. The panorama stretches from Dhaulagiri (8,167m) across the full Annapurna range to Machhapuchhre (6,993m) and is one of the finest mountain viewpoints in Nepal. Back to Ghorepani for breakfast then descend through traditional Gurung villages and stone-stepped trails to Tikhedhunga. A long day with an early start but the views at the top make it worthwhile.

An easy 3-hour walk through the final section of trail brings you to Nayapul where the trekking ends. A private vehicle transfers you to Pokhara in around 90 minutes. Arrive by early afternoon with the rest of the day free on the lakeside promenade. After 17 days on the trail, Pokhara’s food, lake views, and flat ground feel like a different world.

The Prithvi Highway back to Kathmandu follows the Trishuli River gorge through some of Nepal’s finest lowland scenery with meal stops along the way. Arrive in Kathmandu by early evening. The day ends with a farewell dinner of traditional Nepali food and a cultural performance with the team. Three weeks on the trail deserves a proper send-off.

Breakfast at the hotel then a private transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport timed to your flight. If you have a late departure the team can arrange luggage storage or a final morning at Boudhanath or Pashupatinath. Three weeks, 300km, one of the world’s great trekking routes. Done.