This day is set aside for trek preparation. Your guide runs a full gear check, reviews the itinerary and ensures all permits are in order. Use the time to pick up anything missing from the rental shops in Thamel. Early bed recommended as the flight to Nepalgunj leaves in the morning.

A 50-minute flight drops you from the Himalayan foothills into the flat Terai plains of southern Nepal. Nepalgunj sits on the Indian border and is hot, humid and busy compared to Kathmandu. Use the afternoon to rest and prepare for the early morning connection to Juphal. All permits are confirmed and the crew briefed tonight.

A 35-minute mountain flight lands you at Juphal, a small airstrip perched above the Bheri River valley with views of Dhaulagiri to the north. From here the trek begins downhill through terraced fields and riverside trails to Dunai, the administrative headquarters of Dolpa district. This is the last town with reliable mobile signal before the wilderness sets in.

The trail crosses a suspension bridge and follows the Thuli Bheri River west through walnut groves and small villages. The path climbs steadily through dense forest into the lower reaches of Shey Phoksundo National Park. Chhepka is a small settlement where the landscape begins its transition from forested valley to the rocky terrain of upper Dolpo.

The trail climbs through cedar and birch forest before emerging onto a ridge with the first views of Phoksundo Lake below. A 167m waterfall drops from the lake outlet into the gorge above Ringmo village. The lake itself is Nepal’s deepest at 145m, its water shifting between turquoise and deep blue depending on the light and time of day.

A full rest day at the lake before the route climbs into Upper Dolpo. Explore Ringmo village, a small settlement of mud-brick houses and prayer flags on the southern shore, or visit the working monastery above the village. Your body needs this day at 3,611m before the passes ahead. Do not skip it.

The trail follows the eastern shore of the lake on a relatively flat path before entering a wide valley scattered with boulders and meadows. Kanjiroba Himal dominates the skyline to the north as the route traces the Phoksundo River upstream. Camp is set in open terrain with no settlements nearby, the first real taste of the remoteness ahead.

The valley narrows as the trail climbs steadily through moraines and scree onto a high alpine plateau. Vegetation disappears completely above 4,000m and the terrain becomes raw rock and glacial debris. Camp is set at the base of Kang La Pass with clear views of the route ahead. An early night is essential before tomorrow’s biggest day on the trek.

The hardest day on the trek starts before dawn. The climb to Kang La at 5,360m is steep and relentless on loose scree, with thin air making every step slower than expected. Views from the top extend across the entire Dolpo plateau and back to Phoksundo far below. The long descent brings you to Shey Gompa, an 800-year-old monastery sitting opposite Crystal Mountain, its cliffs covered in quartz and marine fossils.

A full day to recover and explore one of the most remote monastery complexes in Nepal. Shey Gompa dates to the 11th century and houses a large copper Buddha statue plated in gold. Walk across to Crystal Mountain to see the quartz-covered cliffs and marine fossils embedded in the rock face. The Bon Po village of Shey sits nearby where locals still follow ancient pre-Buddhist traditions.

The trail climbs through juniper forest before opening onto the rocky zigzag ascent to Saldang La at 5,200m. Views from the pass stretch north towards the Tibetan plateau and south across the entire Dolpo basin. A long descent through yak pastures brings you to Namduna Gaun, a tiny settlement in a wide open valley with camping on flat ground beside a stream.

The descent from Namduna Gaun opens up onto the dry trans-Himalayan plateau with Saldang village visible below on a wide open slope above the Namga Khola stream. Saldang is actually five separate settlements spread across a large hillside, the largest village in inner Dolpo and one of the most prosperous due to its position on the ancient salt trade route to Tibet. Locals still brew chhyang barley beer and butter tea using traditions unchanged for centuries.

The trail heads north from Saldang along the Nagon Khola river through wild barren terrain passing the isolated settlements of Marang and Ki. The route crosses a tributary of the Panzang River before reaching Yangze Gompa, home to an ancient Bon Po monastery. This is one of the last functioning centres of the pre-Buddhist Bon religion in Nepal, still active with resident monks and ritual practices.

The route retraces to Saldang before turning east towards Sibu on a path that climbs steadily through open rocky terrain. Blue sheep are commonly spotted on the slopes above the trail in this section. Sibu sits at the base of the Jeng La approach and the camp here marks the start of the trek’s final high-altitude push before the long descent back towards Dunai.

A shorter day by distance but the altitude makes it demanding. The trail follows the Nam Khong Khola river east through a narrow canyon before climbing onto open ground at the base of Jeng La. Camp is set at 4,900m with clear views of the pass above. Rest well, drink plenty of water and eat a full dinner before the early start tomorrow.

An early start in the dark for the climb to Jeng La at 5,090m on loose rock and scree. The pass delivers wide views of Dhaulagiri and the surrounding Himalayan ranges on a clear day. The descent to Tokyu Gaun is long and knee-testing but the terrain softens as you drop into the Tarap Valley, one of the highest permanently inhabited valleys in the world.

A relatively short and easy day after two consecutive high passes. The trail descends gently through marshland and yak pastures into Dho Tarap, the largest settlement in upper Dolpo and the cultural heartland of the Bon religion in Nepal. Stone houses, prayer wheels and chortens line the valley floor. Take the afternoon to walk through the village and talk to locals before tomorrow’s rest day.

A well-earned rest day in one of the most culturally significant valleys in the Himalayas. Dho Tarap sits at 4,090m and has been permanently inhabited for centuries by people following the Bon tradition. Visit the local monastery, watch yak herders move their animals across the valley floor or simply rest your legs before the long descent back towards Dunai begins tomorrow.

The trail descends from Dho Tarap through a forest of juniper trees into the dramatic Tarap Khola gorge. The river runs fast and loud through narrow canyon walls with blue sheep occasionally visible on the cliffs above. Camp is set beside the river in open terrain with the sound of water the only company. Keep an eye out for wildlife in this section as the gorge is prime snow leopard territory.

A long descent back to civilisation passing through Khanigaon and the ancient hilltop fortress of Tarakot before dropping to Dunai along the Bheri River. The dramatic elevation loss of over 1,600m means the temperature rises steadily through the day. Dunai feels like a different world after two weeks in the high plateau, with shops, tea stalls and mobile signal returning for the first time since Day 4.

An early morning walk back up to Juphal airstrip for the short flight out to Nepalgunj. The 35-minute flight covers in minutes what took days to walk in. Nepalgunj feels immediately familiar after three weeks in the wilderness. The crew is tipped and thanked at the airstrip before you board. A warm shower and a proper bed wait in Nepalgunj tonight.

A morning flight returns you to Kathmandu where a vehicle transfers you back to your hotel in Thamel. The afternoon is free for last-minute shopping in the markets around Thamel or a visit to any heritage sites you missed on Day 2. In the evening the team hosts a farewell dinner to celebrate completing one of Nepal’s most demanding and rewarding treks.

Your guide transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward flight home. If your flight departs late you have the morning free to explore Thamel one last time. Twenty four days, five passes above 5,000m and one of the most remote landscapes on earth. Safe travels.