A one-hour scheduled flight to Nepalgunj, the main hub of western Nepal’s Terai belt. Nepalgunj sits at 150m and is warm, humid and noticeably different from Kathmandu in culture and feel with a mix of Nepali, Tharu and Muslim communities visible in the bazaar. The afternoon is free to visit Bageshwori Temple or the India border market a 20-minute walk away. Charge every device fully tonight as reliable electricity ends here for most of the circuit.

An early 30-minute Twin Otter flight to Jumla at 2,370m, the highest airport in Nepal on regular scheduled service. Stock up on snacks at Jumla’s Khalanga Bazaar before the trail begins as options become very limited beyond this point. The trek climbs immediately from the airport through terraced fields and pine forest along the Jugad Khola gaining 685m to the broad highland plateau of Chere Chaur. The ascent is the first serious effort of the circuit and sets the tone for the days ahead.

The first major high point of the circuit. The trail climbs west from Chere Chaur through dense rhododendron, birch and pine forest before emerging onto open ridge at Jaljala Pass at 3,580m. The Kanjiroba Himal range with its highest peak at 6,883m is visible to the north on clear mornings. The descent drops to the wide grassland of Jaljala Chaur at 3,420m where the circuit trail officially begins and the return route via Danphe Lagna forks right. A long descent through forest follows into the Jaljala Khola valley to Chalachaur.

The trail follows the Jaljala Khola downstream through traditional villages crossing the river on log and suspension bridges and passing stone fields etched with Malla dynasty inscriptions. Kanaksundari village has a 300-year-old Bhagwati temple directly on the trail worth a short stop. Sinja Valley opens at the end of the day, a flat river plain at 2,490m that served as the capital of the Khasa Malla Kingdom from the 12th to 14th centuries. The ruins of the old palace are visible from the trail across the Sinja Khola. Cambridge University has conducted archaeological excavations here and the valley is cited as the birthplace of the Khas language, the direct ancestor of modern Nepali.

Leaving Sinja the trail climbs east following the Hima River through pine and birch forest before a steep ascent to Laha village, a good lunch stop with basic teahouse facilities. The afternoon continues through Gani settlement before the final push to Ghorosingha at 3,050m on a high ridge with views of the surrounding hills. This is the last significant stop before the approach to Rara begins tomorrow. A sleeping bag rated to -5C minimum is essential from tonight as temperatures drop noticeably at this elevation.

The approach to Rara climbs steeply through cedar and pine forest via the Chuchemara Danda ridge where the lake first appears through the trees around 3 to 4 hours into the day. Most trekkers stop here longer than planned. The descent via Murma village leads to the lake shore and Chhapri, the Rara National Park headquarters. Rara at 2,990m covers 10.8 sq km and the water shifts between deep blue and green depending on cloud and light. After six days on trail the teahouses here feel genuinely luxurious by comparison.

A full day with no fixed route. The main excursion is the hike to Chuchemara Hill at 4,090m, a 3 to 4 hour round trip on a steep but straightforward trail delivering an aerial view of the full 10.8 sq km lake with the Kanjiroba and Saipal Himal ranges as backdrop. A complete shoreline walk takes 3 to 4 hours at a relaxed pace through forest, meadow and rocky outcrops. Boat rides on the lake can be arranged locally. Wildlife active at the forest edge in early morning includes musk deer, Himalayan monal and in rare cases red panda.

A second full day at the lake built in for two reasons. Morning cloud is common at Rara and a poor weather window on Day 8 does not cost you the best views. The second day also functions as genuine rest after six consecutive days of trail before the return circuit begins. Revisit Chuchemara at a different time of day for different light on the water, walk sections of shore missed yesterday, or simply sit by the lake. Wildlife observation is most productive at the forest edge in the first hour after sunrise and in the hour before dark.

The return begins. The trail heads west from the lake descending to Gamgadhi at 2,100m, the administrative headquarters of Mugu District with a small bazaar and government offices. Stock up on any supplies here as options become limited south of Gamgadhi. From Gamgadhi the trail follows the Jhyari Khola south through pine and cedar forest passing through traditional Magar villages to Pina at 2,440m. One of the easier days on the circuit by distance and terrain, useful for legs that have now covered over 80km from Jumla.

The return circuit’s first serious day. The trail climbs south through forest to Bhulbule at 3,130m, the Rara National Park exit checkpoint where permits are verified for the last time. The ascent continues to Ghurchi Lagna Pass at 3,480m marked with chortens and prayer flags with views of the Karnali River valley far below and snow peaks bordering Tibet to the north. A long descent through spruce forest drops to Bumra at 2,850m. Cold nights are guaranteed at this elevation and the sleeping bag earns its place again tonight.

The hardest day on the return and the highest point of the entire circuit. The trail crosses two suspension bridges over the Hima River then climbs an unrelenting gradient through birch forest to the natural hot springs, a well-earned rest stop before the final push. The hot springs sit roughly 1.5 to 2 hours below Danphe Lagna Pass at 3,691m, named for the danphe Himalayan monal that frequents the surrounding forest. From the pass the descent drops to Chere Chaur rejoining the Day 3 approach trail and continues into Jumla. The final stretch from Chere Chaur to Jumla takes 2 to 3 hours on a well-worn path.

The morning Twin Otter from Jumla to Nepalgunj takes 30 minutes and follows a scenic low-level route over the Karnali highlands. Cloud typically builds over Jumla by mid-morning so the early slot is critical. MountainKick books the earliest available departure. The connection to Kathmandu takes one hour with arrival by early to mid afternoon. MountainKick arranges a farewell dinner this evening with a traditional Nepali meal. Do not book an international departure tomorrow as Day 14 is your flight delay buffer.

A built-in buffer day for Jumla flight delays, which are common on the Twin Otter route. If flights ran on schedule this is free time in Kathmandu. Boudhanath Stupa is a 20-minute taxi from Thamel and worth the visit. Bhaktapur Durbar Square is 45 minutes by road and one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Asia. Pashupatinath Temple is 30 minutes from Thamel. Use the afternoon for last-minute shopping in Thamel or simply rest before tomorrow’s international departure.

Your guide transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport approximately 3 hours before your international departure. If your flight departs late the morning is free for a final walk through Thamel. Fifteen days, three mountain passes, the ancient ruins of Sinja Valley and two full days at Nepal’s largest lake. Safe travels.